Bristol's Garden Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Fruit in City Spaces
Every 20 minutes or so, an older diesel-powered railway carriage arrives at a spray-painted stop. Close by, a law enforcement alarm pierces the almost continuous traffic drone. Commuters rush by collapsing, ivy-covered fencing panels as storm clouds gather.
It is perhaps the last place you expect to find a perfectly formed grape-growing plot. But one local grower has cultivated 40 mature vines heavy with round purplish grapes on a sprawling garden plot situated between a line of 1930s houses and a local rail line just north of Bristol town centre.
"I've noticed people hiding heroin or other items in those bushes," says Bayliss-Smith. "Yet you simply continue ... and continue caring for your grapevines."
Bayliss-Smith, 46, a documentary cameraman who runs a fermented beverage company, is among several local vintner. He has organized a loose collective of growers who make wine from several discreet urban vineyards nestled in back gardens and community plots throughout the city. The project is sufficiently underground to possess an official name yet, but the group's messaging chat is called Vineyard Dreams.
City Vineyards Around the World
So far, the grower's allotment is the sole location registered in the Urban Vineyards Association's forthcoming global directory, which features better-known urban wineries such as the eighteen hundred plants on the slopes of the French capital's historic Montmartre neighbourhood and more than three thousand vines with views of and within the Italian city. Based in Italy charitable organization is at the forefront of a movement re-establishing city vineyards in historic wine-producing countries, but has discovered them throughout the world, including cities in East Asia, Bangladesh and Uzbekistan.
"Grape gardens assist cities remain more eco-friendly and ecologically varied. They protect land from development by creating permanent, yielding agricultural units inside urban environments," explains the organization's leader.
Like all wines, those created in cities are a product of the soils the plants thrive in, the unpredictability of the climate and the people who tend the fruit. "Each vintage embodies the charm, local spirit, landscape and history of a city," adds the spokesperson.
Unknown Eastern European Variety
Back in the city, Bayliss-Smith is in a race against time to harvest the vines he grew from a cutting left in his garden by a Polish family. Should the rain arrives, then the birds may take advantage to attack again. "This is the enigmatic Eastern European grape," he comments, as he removes damaged and rotten berries from the glistering bunches. "We don't really know their exact classification, but they are certainly hardy. In contrast to noble varieties – Burgundy grapes, Chardonnay and other famous French grapes – you need not treat them with pesticides ... this is possibly a special variety that was developed by the Eastern Bloc."
Group Activities Throughout the City
The other members of the collective are also taking advantage of sunny interludes between showers of autumn rain. On the terrace with views of Bristol's shimmering waterfront, where medieval merchant vessels once floated with casks of wine from Europe and Spain, Katy Grant is harvesting her rondo grapes from approximately 50 vines. "I adore the aroma of these vines. The scent is so evocative," she says, pausing with a basket of fruit slung over her shoulder. "It's the scent of southern France when you open the car windows on vacation."
Grant, 52, who has spent over two decades working for charitable groups in conflict zones, unexpectedly inherited the grape garden when she returned to the UK from East Africa with her family in 2018. She felt an overwhelming duty to look after the vines in the garden of their recently acquired property. "This plot has previously survived multiple proprietors," she explains. "I deeply appreciate the concept of environmental care – of passing this on to someone else so they continue producing from this land."
Terraced Vineyards and Natural Winemaking
A short walk away, the final two members of the collective are busily laboring on the precipitous slopes of Avon Gorge. Jo Scofield has established over one hundred fifty vines situated on terraces in her expansive property, which descends towards the silty local waterway. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she notes, gesturing towards the tangled vineyard. "They can't believe they are viewing rows of vines in a city street."
Today, Scofield, 60, is harvesting clusters of deep violet dark berries from rows of vines slung across the hillside with the assistance of her child, her family member. Scofield, a documentary producer who has worked on Netflix's Great National Parks series and BBC Two's gardening shows, was inspired to cultivate vines after seeing her neighbour's vines. She has learned that amateurs can make intriguing, pleasurable natural wine, which can sell for upwards of £7 a serving in the increasing quantity of wine bars focusing on minimal-intervention wines. "It's just incredibly satisfying that you can actually make good, traditional vintage," she states. "It's very on trend, but really it's reviving an traditional method of making wine."
"When I tread the grapes, all the natural microorganisms are released from the skins and enter the liquid," says the winemaker, ankle deep in a bucket of small branches, pips and red liquid. "That's how vintages were made traditionally, but commercial producers introduce sulphur [dioxide] to kill the wild yeast and subsequently incorporate a commercially produced culture."
Challenging Conditions and Inventive Approaches
A few doors down sprightly retiree another cultivator, who inspired Scofield to plant her grapevines, has assembled his companions to pick Chardonnay grapes from one hundred plants he has arranged precisely across multiple levels. Reeve, a Lancashire-born PE teacher who taught at the local university developed a passion for viticulture on regular visits to Europe. However it is a challenge to cultivate this particular variety in the humidity of the valley, with cooling tides moving through from the Bristol Channel. "I aimed to produce Burgundian wines here, which is somewhat ambitious," says the retiree with a smile. "This variety is slow-maturing and very sensitive to mildew."
"My goal was creating Burgundian wines in this environment, which is a bit bonkers"
The temperamental Bristol climate is not the only problem encountered by grape cultivators. The gardener has been compelled to erect a fence on